Banh Mi Chao Hoa Ma – A True Taste of Old Saigon
Tucked away in a quiet alley of District 3, Banh Mi Chao Hoa Ma is more than just a breakfast spot—it’s a living relic of old Saigon. Established in 1958, this humble eatery is famous for its sizzling pans (chảo) of eggs, cold cuts, and meats served alongside a crispy baguette, offering a hearty, nostalgic meal that captures the spirit of the city’s past. For locals and curious travelers alike, a visit to Hoa Ma is a delicious journey back in time, where the flavors are as rich as the history behind them.

What is Banh Mi?
Bánh mì is a Vietnamese sandwich made with a light, crispy baguette—originally influenced by the French but adapted with local ingredients. It’s typically filled with a mix of savory proteins (like grilled pork, cold cuts, or eggs), pâté, mayonnaise, pickled vegetables, fresh herbs, cucumber, and chili.
Bánh mì reflects Vietnam’s unique blend of East and West and is loved for its bold flavors, affordability, and convenience. It’s a popular street food and a symbol of Vietnamese culinary creativity.
Where is Banh Mi Chao Hoa Ma?
When I had the chance to stop by Cao Thang Street, what caught my eye was the fried bread cart hidden in the small alley 53 Cao Thang. What was more special was the bustling Saigon people enjoying food here. So I was quite curious and quickly went to try the Banh Mi Hoa Ma, the price here ranges from 50,000 VND – 70,000 VND.
- Address: No. 53, Cao Thang Street, Ward 3, District 3.
- Opening Hours: 6:00 AM – 11:00 AM daily.

The highlights of Banh Mi Chao Hoa Ma
Hoa Ma is famous for a reason. It’s not just about the food, but how everything comes together—the big, crusty baguette smeared with butter and rich, creamy pâté, the fresh cold cuts, and the light tang of pickled vegetables. But what really stands out—and what keeps people coming back—is the sizzling mixed meat pan.
That pan is packed. Two sunny-side-up eggs, ham, chả lụa, chả quế, sausage, salted pork belly—all seared until they’re slightly crispy on the edges, with a bit of pungent onion for extra flavor.


How did it taste?
To be honest, the seasoning is quite light, so I usually add soy sauce, salt and pepper, or a dash of chili to suit my taste. One thing you shouldn’t skip is the little plate of pickled vegetables. It may look simple, but it does a lot of heavy lifting—especially after all that fried food. The pickles here aren’t shredded like at other places. They’re sliced thick, and the gentle ginger scent from the white radish, cucumber, and carrot gives the whole meal a refreshing finish.
The first bite of the crispy bánh mì, warm and buttery, gave way to the creamy pâté and savory cold cuts, creating a rich contrast that felt indulgent but familiar.
Then came the pan: the eggs were just right—crispy on the edges, yolks still runny, mixing beautifully with the salty, smoky flavors of the ham, sausage, and pork belly. The slight char added texture and depth, while the onions gave it a nice kick.
What balanced it all out was the pickled vegetables. Their tang and crunch cut through the richness perfectly, and the hint of ginger added a gentle warmth that lingered. I didn’t expect those thick-cut pickles to stand out, but they did—subtle, but essential.
It wasn’t fancy, but it didn’t need to be. It was hearty, nostalgic, and full of soul—like a quiet nod to Saigon’s past served on a sizzling pan.

Even though Hoa Ma has become well-known both in Vietnam and abroad, nothing much has changed. For over 50 years, it’s stayed the same: just a humble food cart, not a fancy shop. It’s still simple, still rustic, and still full of the old Saigon spirit. And honestly, that’s exactly what makes it special.
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